Balochistan Water Channel System

Land is infinite in Balochistan. It is the one place in South Asia where if you ask someone how much land they have, they will generally have no idea. Instead, it is water that matters. In Balochistan, social station is not determined by landholdings but by the size of one’s share of water in a karez. These manmade underground channels passively tap groundwater and provide the lifeblood of villages at the valley floor. The most arid of the provinces in largely semi-arid Pakistan, Balochistan has the highest poverty rate in the country, and more than 70 percent of its population is spread across the vastness of its uplands and plains. Most of the rural population can be characterized as pastoralist and agro-pastoralist, with a rising cohort of sedentary agriculturists colonizing the valley floors in the province’s uplands and one major canal colony in the eastern lowlands. Groundwater is vital to agro-pastoralist and sedentary agriculture, and for more than a millennium the linchpin of groundwater tapping technology in Balochistan has been the karez system. The first well where the water is tapped for a karez is called the mother well, and there is a zone of roughly 1,200 feet in diameter where it is forbidden to dig new wells or otherwise threaten the quality and quantity of the groundwater. The vertical shafts along the underground channel are purely for maintenance purposes, and water may only be used once it emerges from the daylight point. The key advantage of the karez system is that it taps the water passively and therefore does not contribute to groundwater depletion, though the downside is the ensuing dependence on seasonal water flow fluctuations. These structures are found all over West Asia, Central Asia, North Africa, Spain, and even as far as Peru, Mexico, and Japan. Many of the karezes in Balochistan are hundreds of years old, and although they are generally not as architecturally ornate as those in neighboring Iran, they carry equal, if not greater, import in the economic and cultural life of the region. The Soviets understood the importance of karezes in the 1980s and were thorough about destroying them in Kandahar and southern Afghanistan in an effort to break the insurgency. The historical importance of karezes stretches back far before the 1980s, however. Karezes in Kandahar were used to water the vineyards that produced wine that Babur—the first Mughal emperor of India—eagerly awaited in the sixteenth century, on the plains of Bhera in northern Punjab, where Alexander the Great had also made camp during his Indian campaign. Karezes are not just irrigation structures, but are also the bond that holds together the social, economic, and cultural life of the communities in which they are located. Karez water is perpetually flowing and is divided into 24-hour cycles called shabanas. A karez, depending upon its size, may have anywhere from 18 to 32 shabanas distributed between its shareholders, with individual claims ranging from the right to a few minutes to a week of water. But even if one has the right to only a few minutes of water from a karez, a shareholder, or shareeq, is entitled to the standing of a country gentleman in the community and may sit in a jirga and weigh in on collective decisions. As such, the lack of a right to karez water renders one a second-class citizen in the village communities of Balochistan. As karezes require considerable social organization for their maintenance, strong social capital undergirds the system. Universally recognized water rights have given rise to well-articulated water markets, in which water is frequently exchanged either on a reciprocal basis or for cash to direct it toward its most productive or socially desirable use. Karez communities also often hold 24 hours of water in reserve to be auctioned at the beginning of every planting season to finance karez maintenance. These water rights can return up to Rs. 3000 (roughly $28.44) per hour. The administration of water rights and the mobilization of labor and resources for karezes’ periodic maintenance is typically presided over by the institution of the mir-e-aab (water master), who levies maintenance charges, resolves disputes, and maintains accounts. The office of the mir-e-aab is generally separate from the village head, and the position is not necessarily hereditary. Furthermore, the mir-e-aab presides over a water management committee and is not an absolute leader. The karez system is equitable between upstream and downstream users. A water user who has the first parcel of land along a karez water course also has rights to the last parcel of land on the same channel. The user with the second parcel of land also has rights to the second to last parcel of land, and so forth. Such an arrangement ensures that everyone in the community has an equal stake in maintaining the entire water course, unlike in other irrigation systems in which the upstream water users invariably benefit and need not contribute to the maintenance of the entire water channel. For the past 30 years, the Pakistani government and assorted donors have been promoting electric and diesel tubewells in an effort to modernize the agricultural sector. Tubewell water is attractive because it is available on demand and is a modern invention. However, tubewells and electricity to run them present a major drain on the financial resources of their owners. Tubewells are also the main cause of depletion of groundwater; indeed, levels are dropping at alarming rates in Balochistan, particularly in the Quetta, Mastung, and Pishin districts. Beyond the imminent environmental catastrophe that awaits Balochistan are the social consequences of this state-sponsored rush toward modern tubewells. With the dropping of the water table, and with the introduction of every tubewell, dozens of karezes go dry. As one of my research respondents noted: “A tubewell is owned by an individual, [and] two or three people are earning their living [from it], but a karez is communally owned, [and] 500-1000 people may be earning their living [from it].” The main beneficiaries of the replacement of karezes with electric tubewells in Balochistan have been the large farmers. The biggest losers have been the small farmers, pastoralists, and agro-pastoralists who have been deprived of their customary rights to water from karezes. Although the agricultural productivity in Balochistan has increased with the surge in water availability from tubewells, that surge is likely to be temporary because the water is being pumped unsustainably. The poor lose not only their livelihoods but also their sense of pride and dignity. While routine karez management and maintenance procedures kept the rural communities together through strong communal involvement, the drying of karezes strains those bonds. Country gentlemen, even those of modest means under a karez system, have been reduced to working as day laborers or street hawkers in the slums of Quetta and Karachi. The youngest segments of the population fare even worse under such circumstances. Saving these karezes from extinction will be one of the keys to restoring peace and dignity to the rural poor of Balochistan. The depletion of groundwater as it is currently happening will spell doom for that province, both socially and environmentally. The number of functioning karezes in the Quetta valley has been reduced from scores to barely one or two. In the neighboring Mastung valley in the 1970s, there were 365 karezes; now there remain barely a dozen. In Balochistan there has been a general feeling of doom about the future of karezes. As one of my interview respondents observed: “Karezes were a great source of social and communal life for us village folks. People would sit on their sides and discuss their issues and find solutions to their problems. But modern times, new technologies, and tubewells have dried out the karezes and their resurrection is no longer possible, nor is there any future for the existing ones.” Or as another respondent remarked: “Times have changed. New technology is coming in, with new machines, and new [modern] people who like [the] latest machines. The traditional irrigation is being progressively forgotten.” In Syria, too, there was once a thriving karez system, locally referred to as qanats. Qanats were replaced with tubewells from the 1970s through the 1990s, which resulted in a spectacular growth of agricultural productivity. But, by the mid-2000s, the groundwater had been depleted. The resultant rural dispossession and economic devastation had socially disastrous results for Syrian society. While one cannot say that the present-day civil war is a direct consequence of qanat decline, one cannot say that the decline was entirely irrelevant, either. In some countries, however, attempts are being made at restoring karezes. In the Nakhchivan region of Azerbaijan, some karezes are coming back into use after more than 70 years of dormancy. The tubewells had done to this region what they did to Syria and are now doing to Balochistan. Dare one even speculate what might happen in Balochistan when groundwater disappears at present extraction rates and the rural economy collapses? The news is not good at the time of this writing. Hopefully attention to the karez system and the lives that it sustains can keep the situation from deteriorating.

"Moola Chotok" Khuzdar, Balochistan

History

Valley of Moola occupies a significant geographical status due its strategic importance and central location. It has always been the suitable passage in ancient times to link India to Afghanistan and Central Asia. Owing to the fact not only the local nomads usually going to Sindh from Balochistan (famous as Sindh khurasaan) in winter season for earning of livelihood sources, but also the renowned Army Generals, Invaders, Kings, ambassadors etc opted Moola pass for example Caractrus, one of the famous General of Alexander the Great in B.C, Mohammad Bin Qasim,s Army troops, Mir Noori Naseer khan while attacking Dehli ,Famous Mughul ambassador and general Ameer Mohammad Maasum Shah built a monument at Village pir lakka Moola . The valley is an integral part of the strategic and Defence It used to be the most suitable route in ancient times when mettled roads and vehicles were not available. The importance of the pass is so because its scenic beauty would fascinate and attract the travelers and presence of population there would contribute in deciding to opt the track. Moreover, the Valley would be safest track due its strategic composition as there is a penalty of water flowing annually in the Moola River bed and the variety of different mountain rages which matter in Defense factor. The historical and cultural remains of the area provide evidence about human activities covering a large span of time.

Introduction More then 80 km away from Khuzdar there is a beautiful village called Moola. Moola is a Tehsil of District Khuzdar. Its population is more then 20000 thousand. It has hottest places in the country like Sibi and Dhadar, where temperature shoots up to over 120 °F, as well as coldest towns like Quetta, Kalat, Ziarat, Kan Mehtarzai where mercury falls down much below freezing point Balochi is a generalized term, for the people include the Dravidian-speaking Brahui possibly the last descendants of the Indus Civilization, and the Jat or Zutt, an Indo Aryan speaking people of Indian origin. Most people speak Brabui. Which is renowned on account of its colossal mountains, streams, springs and waterfalls, rice, date, fish. Sub Tehsil Moola consist of many small villages and town Such as Goerowe, Nahr, Manjalove, Upper Hossoi, Lower Hossoi, Peer lakhah, Paetame, Hayrav, Kharzan, Hitachi, Jahan, Parewande, Khohive and many other small villages and town. Moola is famous due to historical place as well as its geographical location. it is the get way between central Balochistan and west Balochistan, Sindh and Iran. People opt this way (Moola Pass) because it is the shortest distance between central Balochistan and sindh. Ruins of Thore khear, Hatachi, Hayrav, Kial Beig and Pasta Khan reveal the belonging of Moola to the 2000-year-old civilization. The things found from these ruins show the prosperity and civilization of that area. They were ccivilized and good architects. They used to live in the caves and stone made building. They kept cattle's and flocks. Different kinds of utensil, toys, statues and idles made up of mud and stone have been found from this area. Instead of these things, many types of ornament are found, made up of animal bones and stone. The people of this area sail these precious things at low cost or throw them considering useless. If Agrological Department pay attention towards these ruins then it will helpful know the historical background of these ruins. Moola River is the biggest river of Jalawan. Its origin exists in mountains of Dist Khuzdar. It flows through out the year. Local people make bounds to use the water of this river for irrigation and daily requirements. It irrigates a vast area. Fish is also found in this river that is why fishing is the one of the best hobbies of the people of this area. Most of the people of this zone are related to agriculture sector and keep flock in their homes. It is also well known due to its chase crops for instance rice, wheat. Moola is also famous due to the cultivation of rice in Balochistan. Many vegetables are grown in this region such as Tomato, Pea, Ladyfinger, Onion, Sunflower, Pumpkin and Mustard etc. It is one of the place hottest place of Balochistan due the reason there are many fields of Mangos. These mangos are juicy and suitable for the manufacture of pickle. Besides mangoes there are many fields of orange, lemon, olive. Jahan is the one of the most beautiful village of Sub Tehsil moola. Its population is more than 2000 thousand. Green field of wheat and rice are spread all over the village. In this village many waterfalls are found. Chotok is the one of biggest waterfall of Sub Thesil Moola as well as Balochistan. It is found in Jahan village. Chotok is a very beautiful waterfall. This waterfall consists of between two hills. The peaks of the hills are interacted with each other. That is why waterfall just looks like the umbrella and prevails thick dark. For this reason it attracts the tourist to itself. Its water is hot during winter season and cold during summer season. People feel pleasant there and find themselves in the imaginative world. The cause of downfall of the people of this sector is the lack of literacy rate. As the matter of fact they are unknown to the importance of literacy and education. The Govt is paying a very low attention and has not taken any suitable step yet. There is only one so-called primary schools in the whole area. Teachers remain absent through out the year; as a result the children are deprive of education. There is only one Primary Girl School that has been closed for many years due to this the literacy rate of women in the area is zero percent. Building of many schools have turned into ruins and the process of education have not been started yet. Government of Balochistan pays ful attention to this area to improved literacy rate and attendance of teachers who never attend the schools once in a year. But they receive the dues monthly from Govt. Ministry of Education should take notice regarding to this problem. People of this area are also deprived of health facilities. There is only one hospital in whole Moola. Dispensaries are in few villages but without presence of health staff and medicines. Patients die before reaching the Dist hospital, due to the poor condition of road and lack of communication recourse More than 50 commercial varieties of dates are produced here. Incidentally the Brahui language has one ~ hundred words for dates as also for camels, such as Giear dani, Puskone dani, Mohammad useafi etc. Caves Moola valley is historically famous as Moola pass because it has been the most suitable route to link not only India, Afghanistan and Iran but also link Balochistan and Sindh with easiest approach. It is so because water, pastures and population has been available along the whole route dates back to thousands of years. More over due to the marvelous hilly and categorical different mountain range makes it a unique strategic point of view. There are a number of small and big cave located in different mountain in Moola some well known of the are as fallow

Hingol National Park, Princess of Hope, Balochistan

Hingol National Park or Hungol National Park (Urdu: ہنگول ) covers about 1,650 km². and is the largest of National Parks of Pakistan and lies on the Makran coast in Balochistan and approximately 190 km from Karachi.[1] It winds through the Hungol valley between high cliffs.[2] The area was for the first time declared reserved in 1988 . Parts of three districts of Balochistan, namely; Lasbela, Gwadar and Awaran are covered in this Park. This national park contains a variety of topographical features and vegetation, varying from arid sub tropical forest in the north to arid montane in the west. Large tracts of the Hingol National Park are covered with drift sand and can be classified as coastal semi desert. The National Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species.[3] According to independent reports, 20 staff members including 18 game watchers, two deputy rangers are currently responsible for the management of the Park under the guidance of the park Manager who reports to the Conservator and the Secretary Wildlife, Forest, Livestock, Environment and Tourism. Hingol National Park is known to support at least 35 species of mammals, 65 species of amphibians and reptiles and 185 species of birds. Some 250 plant species were recorded in the initial surveys including 7 yet undescribed species. Many more species are yet to be collected. The park forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and numerous in the Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas. Total population is estimated over 3000

This is not Grand Canyon. With it’s mountains, Hingol river, desert and deep blue Arabian sea, this is Hingol National Park in Baluchistan. Covering about 1650 sq. km, Hingol National Park, the largest National Park in Pakistan, lies on the Makran coast approximately 190 km from Karachi. The area was for the first time declared reserved in 1988. The park area covers parts of the three districts, namely; Lasbela, Gawader and Owaran of Baluchistan province containing a variety of topographical features and vegetation. Park includes the estuary of the Hingol river which supports a significant diversity of bird and fish species. It also forms an excellent habitat to wild Sindh Ibex, Afghan Urial and Chinkara Gazelle. Ibex is found in all steep mountain ranges and is abundant in Hinglaj and Rodani Kacho Mountain areas.

The Princess of Hope

is a statue, founded in Hingol National Park lies on the Makran coast in Balochistan and approximately 190 km from Karachi. The name Princess of Hope was given by Hollywood actress Angelina Jolie on her visit to this area.

"Pir Ghab'' Balochistan, Pakistan

Ziarat

Ziarat (Urdu: زیارت) is the capital of Ziarat District, Balochistan, Pakistan. It is located at 30° 22′ 51 N, 67° 43′ 37 E with an altitude of 2453 meters (8050 feet) and is a famous holiday resort of Balochistan. It is famous for being the second largest Juniper forest in the world and nearly every trip from Karachi to Quetta stops at Ziarat. Ziarat (literally ziarat is an Islamic shrine) was the summer residence of the chief commissioner of Baluchistan, and sanatorium for the European troops at Quetta: 8,850 ft (2,700 m). above the sea and 33 m. by cart-road from the railway. There is a good water supply, and the hills around are well-wooded and picturesque

Juniper forest Ziarat is also very famous for its juniper forest. Junipers species Juniperus macropoda, Juniperous exceisa polycarpus or Pashthani Juniper are found in Ziarat districts and Zarghoon mount and some other mounted areas of Balochistan known as the second largest Juniper forest in the world, which covers an area of about 247,000 acres (1,000 km2). There are many important species found in this ecosystem including animal and birds, the Chakor partridge, bushes and ground flora which local people use these plants as indigenous treatments for a variety of diseases.The junipers are considered to be the real treasure of Ziarat. There are trees in the valley which are more than 5000 to 7000 years old. In Ziarat a herb called Ephedra sinica is found in abundance from which a chemical called ephedrine is extracted, an important constituent of various medicines, especially cough syrups. When the snow falls in Ziarat's winter the juniper valley is at its most beautiful.Chiltan Adventurers Association Balochistan is raising voice on National & International level as Juniper Defenders for the conservation of this world heritage since 1984

Tourist areas iarat is the location of the Ziarat residency where Jinnah lived and spent his last days of life, Ziarat is a famous tourist site. There is a small dam and the valley is full of fruits in summer and winter cherry in summer and apple in winter. The honey of Ziarat is very famous.

The Residency was constructed in 1892. It is an important building, the whole building is actually a wooden structure beautifully designed and has great architectural importance. It was originally meant to be a sanatorium, and it was converted into the summer residence of the Agent of the Governor General. It is now a national monument. The residency catches the tourists' attention due to its unique location and the wonderful hilly surroundings. The weather is really pleasant during summer time and the local people are hospitable, but in winter the weather is severe and it is more difficult to survive. During summer time the apple and cherry gardens provide a pleasant view for tourists. THE GORGES: Balochistan is an arid land which receives very low rainfall annually. But innumerable natural springs known as KAREZ and streams are found in most of the areas. There are more than a half dozen gorges around Ziarat formed by natrul karez spring water falling through narrow opening amongst the mountain rocks producing a dramatic effect. The famous gorges along the road to Ziarat are Chutair Tangi, Kahn Tangi, Kawas Tangi, Faran Tangi and the Sandman Tangi

Tribes The local residents of ziarat are pashtoons(Kakar, and Dotani Dummer(kakar). Among these [Kakar is the largest tribe and 70% of the total of population. Balochs' claim of being local residents of ziarat is totally based on misinformation and some kind of political bias. Pashtoons are the only local residents of Ziarat.ziarat is mostly accupied by panezai or sarangzai tribes. Kakar is further divided into different kinds of sub casts including Panezai, Sarangzai, Yasinza, and Ahmadkhail. among these, Panezai, Yasinzai, Domer and Sarangzai constitute the highest population of the green valley of the Pashtoon belt. Demographically, Panezais are regarded as the most intelligent, education-oriented and highly developed people of Ziarat. This civilised tribe is found in Kach,killi sardaran jungal bandat ahmaddon, Gogi, Kan, Wam, Kawas, Zindra, Cheena, and main Ziarat areas of the last resort of Quaid e Azam. On the other hand, Domar constitute as the greatest faction of the newly annexed Tehsil Sanjavi of Ziarat.

Shrines he shrine of Baba Kharwari is 8 km from Ziarat town. A member of Sarang zai tribe, his name was Tahir. He became a disciple of Nana Sahib and a number of miracles are attributed to him. He is buried in a valley about 8 km from Ziarat. A large number of people visit his shrine and offer sacrifices in his memory. During the Eid festival, the tribesmen gather around the shrine and hold wrestling and marksmanship competitions. The shrine of Nau Gaza Baba is 1 km from Ziarat town. It is surrounded by big graveyards. Nau Gaza Baba's real name was Kareemdad. He was a member of the 'Esakhail Sanerzai' tribe. When he died, his body became large by nine(Nau) yards(gaz)therefore people started to call him Nau Gaza Baba. Many people visit the shrine to pray. Earthquake On the morning of October 29, 2008 around 4:00 am the town and surrounding areas were struck by an earthquake. The first was a 6.2 magnitude but lasted a couple of seconds the next followed at a magnitude of 6.4 lasting almost 30 seconds destroying many mud houses leaving several government buildings destroyed as well.

Neighbouring villages were also badly affected by the earthquake. Over 50,000 people have been made homeless and 300 feared dead.Landslides had cut-off many roads and accessibility to the area was made more difficult. Pakistani military helicopters were used to reach mountainous and remote locations, where some villages had been cut off by landslides. The scale of the disaster is quite extensive but much of the experience learned from the October 2005 earthquake which struck northern Pakistan was effectively put into place. The aftershocks were also felt in the city of Quetta causing widespread alarm. The rescue and relief squad of Chiltan Adventurers Association Balochistan sponsored by Pakistan Customs Quetta distributed the relief goods to the affected mountainous and remote areas, the same team rescued and helped the survivors jointly with the co-operation of the Chinese search and rescue team in Balakot earthquake 2005. Many of the same group also helped survivors of the 2005 Kashmir earthquake, which killed over 75,000 people.In 1935, Quetta suffered almost complete destruction in 1935 Balochistan earthquake which claimed the lives of about 30,000 people.

Thank You.

Pashtuns in Balochistan

Pashtuns in Balochistan (Pashto: د بلوچستان پښتانه‎) include ethnic Pashtun people and tribes settled in the Balochistan region as well as natives of Balochistan who have Pashtun ancestry. Pashtuns are an important community in Balochistan, exercising considerable political, economic, social and cultural influence in the province, and are one of it's main ethnic groups today.

The northern districts of Balochistan, Pakistan which border Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and Afghanistan have historically been Pashtunized and predominantly inhabited by Pashtuns; in contrast, the southern regions of Balochistan are mainly populated by the local Baloch, Brahui and other ethnic groups. A sizeable Pashtun population is also found in the provincial capital Quetta, where Pashtuns constitute the majority.

History Pashtuns formed the majority of the population in British Baluchistan before Pakistan's independence.[1] They played a pivotal role in the Pakistan Movement in the mid-twentieth century.[1] A prominent Pashtun leader and Pakistan Movement activist from Balochistan was Qazi Essa, who was a member of the Muslim League.[1] Pashtuns have been more economically well-off compared to their Baloch compatriots; after the independence of Pakistan, they overtook the local economy and trade in Balochistan which had previously been controlled by Hindus and Sikhs.[1] An important political development that arose among the community was the formation of the "Pashtun Brotherhood" in the 1950s by Pashtun nationalist figure Abdul Samad Khan Achakzai. This organisation aimed to create a unified Pashtun province within Pakistan which would have also included Pashtun parts of Balochistan. Achakzai's concept did not materialise in the backdrop of the One Unit policy

Pishin and Loralai in northern Balochistan are notable Pashtun districts. Quetta also has a large Pashtun population

The Enchanting Quetta Snow fall

Snow falls has been always a source of joy and enjoyment for people. It gives the sense of far off heaven, the whispers of some far away fairy land or the jingle bell beautiful Christmas. Snow falls are unique and one of the most awaited weather in world especially in Asian countries like Pakistan. Pakistan is a naturally rich country since it experiences all tastes of weather in a year. Murree, khaghan, Mar gala hills, Northern areas and Quetta are famous for their heavy snowfall with best natural scenes. Today we will let you know about recent snow fall in Quetta. See how people enjoy snow fall here and what Quetta looks like in Snow fall.

Allah became very kind on Quetta this winters and started the beautiful days of snowfall on 22 January, 2012 which still persists till this article was written. The Snow fall after three years in Quetta was the source of joy and surprise for Quetta citizens. They were astonished and so happy that they even forget the low gas pressure here in Quetta city. The mohar dar and cheltan mountains looked like a fairy dressed completely in a White. It seemed so magical that who so ever saw it just could not escape its magical charm. Shebaz Park, Askari Park, Polo ground and the Plain area in foot of Mohar dar mountain series was crowded with people who came with their families to enjoy the most awaited Quetta Snow fall.The most interesting thing which attracted people were houses which were build on mountains. They looked so traditional and one of its own kind. The houses on the mountain were covered with snow. Here how can we forget those pals who were capturing this beautiful snowfall in Quetta? People with cameras took snaps of this attraction catching chilled snowing. Quetta People proved their “Zinda Dilli” by performing all “snow fall must to do’s”, different groups of friends and families made numerous snow men. These different snowmen were so cute but indeed alike. People here continued hitting each other with snow balls. These activities were so interesting and enjoyable citizens of Quetta ignored the the chilling winds which were trying to freeze them. The tall juniper trees, the rose plants waiting for its season were all covered under a white veil of snow.